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Island Windjammers: the ports

Caribbean, Cruises — By on January 18, 2010 at 6:17 pm

Tobago Cays, the GrenadinesIsland Windjammers runs just one itinerary right now – a round-trip from Grenada through the Grenadines. Luckily, it’s a great one for sailors and beach lovers alike, as the Grenadines are full of lovely areas to snorkel, swim and explore, including the beautiful-beyond-belief Tobago Cays. 

Returning to the Diamant by dinghy, Island Windjammers

What also makes the itinerary special is that, with the exception of Bequia, these are tiny ports where bigger cruise ships can’t go.

  Shock and awe on the dinghy, Tobago Cays, Diamant cruise, Island Windjammers

We took a dinghy onto the islands, occasionally making a wet landing on the smaller beaches (miraculously, my laptop and cameras didn’t get wet, which I attribute to the skills of crew members Troy and Aubrey). In some cases, we were the only people on the beaches!

Overall, I liked all of our stops. I saw some new beaches and have now been to all of the inhabited Grenadine islands, except Canouan. I was a little irritated that mechanical problems with our anchor prevented us from visiting Mustique (what can I say? I was hoping to spot a celebrity at Basil’s or Macaroni Beach).

And it’s not necessarily an itinerary I’d like to do over and over again, particularly because Grenada isn’t the easiest place to get to. I’d love to see the company expand to the B.V.I. or other islands – maybe once they get the kinks worked out and have the Diamant under control, they can turn their attentions elsewhere.

Anse La Roche, Carriacou, Diamant, Island Windjammers

Carriacou. Technically, Carriacou belongs to Grenada, although it’s considered part of the Grenadine chain, most of which is lumped with St. Vincent (confusing, I know). We harbored here at Anse La Roche, a white sand beach with little on it except a few cows that kept wandering down. We snorkeled here near some rocks and enjoyed the drinks from the cooler that the crew members brought us.

Clifton, Union Island, Diamant cruise, Island Windjammers

Union Island, Clifton. We made two stops at Union Island, overnighting in Chatham Bay on the island’s west end twice. On the first visit, we didn’t get off at the beach and instead went to the island’s main town, Clifton. It was a rainy day, but I enjoyed walking around and taking photos of the colorful buildings and shops.

Fruit stand in Clifton, Union Island, Grenadines, Island Windjammer

There isn’t much else to see here – from what I could tell, Union Island is more of a stopover for sailors and yachties fueling up on their way to Tobago Cay.

Mayreau, the Grenadines, Diamant, Island Windjammers

Mayreau. From Clifton, we continued on to Mayreau, the smallest of the inhabited Grenadines.

Mayreau Catholic Church, the Grenadines, Diamant, Island Windjammers

The main attraction here is a Catholic church, perched high on the island near the elementary school. It was quite a hike but well worth the view.

View of Tobago Cays from Mayreau, the Grenadines, Diamant, Island Windjammers

At the back of the church, you had a great view of Tobago Cays and the brilliant blue water there.

Map of the Grenadines, Mayreau Catholic Church, Diamant, Island Windjammers

There’s also a handy map painted on the back of the church, just  in case you forget what island you are on!

School children in Mayreau, Grenadines, Diamant, Island Windjammer

We clowned around with some of the school children, many of whom wanted to take photos with my camera. A few people continued the walk to Saltwhistle Bay on the island’s northern end. Both of the island’s internet cafes were closed when I was there, so I ended up sitting outside on a free connection. Several islanders came up to talk with me, all expressing happiness that our boat was stopping here. A very friendly place.

Bequia. Bequia is one of my favorite places. For me, it has the right mix for a small island. There are plenty of restaurants and bars – plus lobster pizza! – yet nothing seems too crowded (although I’ve never been there when a larger cruise ship is in port). To read more about Bequia, check out my November 2009 report here.

Boat makers at Sargeant Brothers, Bequia

Our day here started well enough. I brought Bob, who makes historically accurate boat replicas for the Naval Museum in Annapolis, to Sargeant Brothers, where he talked with model boat makers there.

Lower Bay, Bequia, Diamant cruise, Island Windjammers

After a lunch of lobster pizza at De Reef (I had been to Mac’s last time), I headed back to Lower Bay, which had some excellent snorkeling  – not to mention some excellent hard bodies of all nationalities). 

Moonhole, Bequia, Diamant, Island Windjammers

Alas, our night didn’t go as well. We were on our own, and there was some miscommunication about whether or not the dinghy would take us in. In absence of a leader, we did nothing – and were a little bored. This is when I also found out that snorkeling trips to Moonhole were available – but we had never been told about them.

In my opinion, the Diamant really needs a social director, someone who can organize shore dinners or activities at least once during the trip. Keep in mind that the Diamant doesn’t have the PPP parties, crab races or other fun traditions that the Windjammer cruises were known for. I know people come on the ship to be casual but a little bit of organized fun wouldn’t hurt the casual atmosphere.    

No one on the beach but us pups. Chatham Bay, Union Island, the Grenadines

Union Island, Chatham Bay. We returned to lovely Chatham Bay at the end of the cruise and had a lovely morning. Capt. Matt told us that the rocks here house “rivers of fish” – and he was right. It felt strange to be swimming in the middle of so many schools.

"Rivers of fish," Chatham Bay, Union Island, the Grenadines

This area has several beach bars so you really could spend a day hanging out. A luxury property is being built at one end, so if you like your beaches to yourself, go before it’s too late.

Boats at Tobago Cays, the Grenadines, Island Windjammer

Tobago Cays. Last but certainly not least, these islands - protected as a marine park – are among the most beautiful in the world. Word is out – when you arrive, you can’t help noticing all the other boats, ranging from tiny sailboats to massive yachts, surrounding you. The beach was a little crowded when we arrived. The snorkeling wasn’t quite as good as it was when I was here on the Friendship Rose daytrip (read about that here) in November. I did see a turtle though, and followed it for quite a while.

Sunbathing on Tobago Cays, Grenadines, Island Windjammers

The beach on Bagatelle was a little windy to sunbathe on (although we tried), so I went back to the boat. Several members in our group went across to another island, which was completely beautiful and deserted. The Tobago Cays really are the perfect desert islands!

Leaving my mark in Tobago Cays - I'll be back! (again)

I’d love to hear from others who have been to these islands. What did you like the best – and the least – about them? Tell me in the comments section below!

Read my other Island Windjammer posts!

The Diamant

Rope swing

Other passengers

Seasickness - and how to fight it 

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    5 Comments

  • Kay says:

    Thank you so much for the pics and blog. I will be on the Diamant in just 12 more days and cannot wait to sail, and to visit the Grenadines once again.

    What can I say? I have been to all of those islands many times and never tire of the Grenadines. Whenever I consider taking a trip, my ideal vacation always involves sailing and those islands. I love the smaller islands where tourism is us, and the beaches are still unspoiled. I love the people who are always friendly and helpful. My biggest sorrow was that the big ships finally found some of them, including Mayreau.

    It sounds like you did not go on over the hill on Mayreau to Salt Whistle Bay. It is a wonderul, soft white beach with a very friendly bar/restaurant where you can get a great burger and fries (if they have potatoes that day). In addition, we always go up at night to the top of the hill, where there is lots of music and dancing in the small bars. It was a serious tradition on the Mandalay.

    I consider Bequia magical. Did you visit the shops in town? The book store has a great selection of all types of books, maps, and other items available only there. And, yes, the lobster pizza is to die for.

  • Chris says:

    Kay – Thanks for reading! You’ll have to come back here after your Diamant cruise and report back on what you thought.

    You are right, I didn’t go to Salt Whistle Bay. One woman on our boat told us that they went out at night with Oxford (who is from Mayreau) to the bars. That was one flaw of the Diamant – they didn’t really have someone who organized that kind of thing.

    I do love Bequia! I was there in November with my husband on our own vacation, which I thought was the best trip I took all year. I did go to the book store this time and saw all of the titles from Caribbean authors. I’m sure I’ll go back there again sometime.

    Thanks for reading and enjoy your cruise!

  • Tomtoes says:

    Hi Chris, great trip report along with the photo log. I will have to say that you were only a short down hill walk to to one of the top beaches in the Carribbean. And after soaking in the sights of Salt Whistle Bay and a drink or two, if you don’t want to walk back up the hill, Patrick (one of Oxford’s many cousins) can take you back to the the other side in his motor skiff for a few bucks!
    I have a few shots of the old WJ cruises on my webshots page! Enjoy.

  • Kay says:

    Chris,
    It’s hard to explain to someone else what the lure is for us to cruise those islands the way we want to cruise. Thanks for all your posts. I have thoroughly enjoyed your photos too. Oh, I just cannot wait.

    And, for you if you go again or anyone else, you do not need someone to organize a trip up the hill. Just go walking. If you get lost on Mayreau, you must be blind or have already seriously frequented the few bars up the hill. There is no where that I would feel safer just walking alone than on that island. The folks are so friendly, you would not be alone for long. As I walk up and over the hill, I usually have quite a few of the adults and children who walk at least a bit of the way with me just to chat. The children especially love to ask where you are from and where that is in the US. That is how they learn their geography. Part of being a jammer is that you do not need to have organized activity and in fact, many of us detest it. We would much rather ‘play it by ear’.

    I just cannot wait. In just a few more days (the first week of Feb), I will be hauling my body up and over that hill for a burger and then water taxi back to the ship to rest a while before heading up for the evening. Yippee.

  • Heather says:

    Mayreau’s Salt Whistle Bay is a MUST. Coming upon it from above suggests to me what the Paradise Earth will look like!!! I have congregation friends on Bequia. It is a small congregation (as of 2001 24 active members and 3 pioneers) with a senior couple (if they’re still alive) living just above the Kingdom Hall. I always make a point of hiking to it from the Windjammer side (don’t remember the port name). Mac’s makes absolutely fantastic rum punch. I miss the Grenadines big time. I have many friends in Grenada too.

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