I was in Rome and central Tuscany for 10 days in mid-April on an assignment for work. The dates coincided so we were able to see Rome during Easter. My husband came with me, paying his own way. Our flight was on Iberia Airlines, IAD to FCO, with a change in Madrid.

Let me say off the bat that Rome is one of my favorite world cities. This was my third visit, but the first for my husband – and actually his first trip to Europe. Because of that, we retread many sites that I had already visited on previous trips, but we did find time to see many new sites as well. Rome is the type of place where you acn return again and again – and still discover a piece of the city that’s new to you. I can’t wait to return.

Most of our trip centered around the sites mentioned in the Dan Brown book, Angels & Demons, for a story pegged to the movie’s May opening. This meant poking around crypts and churches, interviewing both fans and faithful – and finding out everything we could about Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the alleged Illuminati mastermind.

Highlights, Rome:

Easter Mass at the Vatican. We had reserved free tickets through the Bishops Office for US Visitors Office to the Vatican, making our request via email. The Mass started at 10:30 a.m. so we started over there around 9 a.m. Big crowd, but managable - unless you have severe claustrophobia, I wouldn’t let the number of people dissuade you (although I will admit, the Vatican Museums were packed all week). There were security checkpoints. We were able to get seats perhaps 20 feet in front of the obelisk. The atmosphere before the Mass was fun – it seemed more like a rock concert than a religious ceremony, with people singing, waving flags and clapping. Even if you aren’t religious, there’s something uplighting and moving about being among the faithful on a major holiday.

Guided tour of the Borghese Gallery. The Borghese Gallery, with its significant Bernini statues and Caravaggio paintings, does not make it easy to visit. You are limited to two hour time blocks, at specific times, and must make advance reservations. Our Context Tour guide, Susann, was a British Art History student who specialized in Caravaggio, so she helped  maximize the time that we had in the museum.

Vatican Scavi catacombs tour. You must book ahead for this one – I had reserved my April date back in February via email – as there are a limited number of tours a day. The tour takes you several stories below St. Peter’s, to the pagan cemetery that the original Constantine church was built upon. It ends up with the closest view of St. Peter’s original grave that you’ll be able to get. Only a limited number of tourists are allowed to visit per day. Definitely try to do this – even if you aren’t Catholic, there’s something special about seeing the tombs which at the time were near Nero’s circus – and imagining what the Vatican City looked like back in ancient times.

Capuchan Crypt below Santa Maria della Concezione. Go if you have a taste for the macabre. The Capuchan monks used bones of their deceased brethren  to decorate their resting place – not as a warning but as a symbol that earthly life isn’t the be all and end all. We found it fascinating. (and WISH we had photos, but alas, they don’t allow cameras).

The Pantheon. My favorite building in the world. Period. See it.

Bernini statues in Santa Maria del Popolo and Santa Maria della Vittoria. Say what you will about Dan Brown, Angels & Demons – where the main character races around Rome searching out Bernini statues – does provide a great map of city. While I had seen many of the sites in the book before - the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square – I had never been to these secondary churches where important Bernini works are housed. A Baroque jewelbox of a cathedral, gilted and overlaid to the hilt, Santa Maria della Vittoria in particular is outstanding. And seeing the statue St. Theresa in Ecstasy up close does make you wonder if Bernini intended to cross the line (Brown theorizes that the Church moved the statue from the Vatican because it was too pornographic).

Basilica di San Clemente. One guidebook called it the “lasagna of Roman churches.” It’s a great place to see Rome “recycling” in action, as the current 12th century church, with its gorgeous mosaics, was built above a  4th century church – which was built above a 1st century home.

The Scala Santa. Across the street from San Giovanni in Laterano, Rome’s “official” cathedral. The Scala is allegedly the staircase that came from Pontius Pilate’s home in Jerusalem, which Jesus used to ascend to the Cruxifiction . It’s considered so sacred that pilgrims go up the 29 steps on their knees, saying a prayer at each steps.

The Forum. As this trip marked my third to Rome, I was a little blase about such well-touristed standards as the Colosseum and Forum. As it was my Don’s first time not only in Italy, but in Europe – he was amazed and awed by the ancient sites. It really can be moving to walk through the ruins at the Forum and thinking about those who came long before. Our visit there reminded me that sometimes a tourist site is a tourist site for a reason; dismiss them at your peril. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds.

Lowlights, Rome:

Vatican Museums tour. There were about 30 people in our group, way too many for the crowds in the hall. The tour was conducted at breakneck speed, giving us little time to catch our breath. Our audioguides were faulty, and it was strain to hear the guide. We were both cranky by the Sistine Chapel, which was packed to the gills.

Check in with Iberia in the Rome airport. A nightmare, with nearly a hundred people lined up at the ticketing counter. We had arrived at the airport nearly 3 hours before check in, and we were in line for easily half of that time.

Last but not least – the food!

Despite my research on Chowhound, we didn’t get to as many “high end” places as I had hoped. But here are some of the highlights.

Osteria della Frezza. This is the wine bar behind the ‘Gusto complex, just off Via del Corsa. For 4 euro a plate, you could fill up on cicchetti – basically, Italian bar food. On our first night, we found it filling – and avoided the huge Saturday night crowds waiting to dine there.

Osteria del Sostegno, We found the best pasta dish of the trip at this place in an alley a few streets away from the Pantheon – a fantastic white truffle tagliatelle with mushrooms. Yum! There was a limited menu because it was Easter, but we were still satisfied.

La Piazetta , on an alley off Via Cavour, not far from the Forum. I had picked this out of a guidebook, and it ended up being on Maureen Fant’s go-to list. I had a pesto pasta. The carbonara at neighboring tables looked delicious, as did the dessert buffet.

Obika, a mozzarella bar on Campo del Fiori. We weren’t in the mood for a full meal one night so we pulled up a chair at this bar directly on the square and watched the action. We ordered the mozzarella sampler which included five cheeses. Yummy. Service was spotty, however.

Osteria dell’Angelo. Our guidebook said this was close to the Vatican and they were stretching the truth a little….it was more like a half mile. But, it was worth it for the carbonara. Every bite of rigatoni noodles had bacon inside. Delicious.

Gelateria della Palma. 100 flavors of gelato. What else is there to say! Near the Pantheon.

Cavour 313, An old wine bar not far from Forum on Via Cavour. We met fellow Tweeter @MissExpatria here for delicious Lazio syrah and local cheeses served with honey. Could linger here for hours.

Want to read more about our recent European adventures? Check out the Tuscany or Barcelona trip reports.

See more photos of Rome on my husband’s website.

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